Cool air in the singeing Florida Keys summer is almost as important as ice-cold Heineken, and when it comes to keeping Anhinga cool, "we" means "me". I pride myself on my ability to troubleshoot Anhinga's woes. After 10 years, I have become familiar with her ways, as almost everything aboard her that can break has broken at least once. Every 18 months or so, the air conditioning raw-water pump commits suicide by starvation. It's something of a ritual for the brand, and I naturally assumed it had chosen our holiday for its demise. I carry a spare raw-water pump and have become so adroit at replacing it that on that day, the task took me less than 30 minutes.