It was lovely one afternoon, when our agent came to take us for a drive on Isla Navarino. We headed west from Puerto Williams, the only road goes along the coast, and it was incredibly beautiful, the Beagle channel looking it's best in the afternoon sunshine. Jose had brought a pack of beer with him so we sat by a historic graveyard from the Yaghan tribe, soaking up the warmth of the autumn sun and chatting to Jose in our very average spanglish! One of the real challenges of operating down here is the bureaucracy and red tape that surrounds any and every movement of the boat. Since we are registered as more than 50 tonnes, we now have to pay a pilot to go in and out of both Ushuaia and Puerto Williams which is difficult to understand when we have been going in and out happily on our own for the past two seasons! However, this means that we also have to pay an agent to manage and book the pilot, and organize all the paperwork. Again, we have been doing this perfectly satisfactorily for the past two seasons, but the authorities say, and we do! Jose has been worth every penny (I'm not sure Skip would agree but from our point of view, it does make life very much easier) and for this charter, with Jose's intervention, we have been given special permission to sail west along the Beagle, and out through Bahia Cook into the Pacific, in order that we can then sail south, around Cape Horn and then back up to Puerto Williams. This makes a wonderful loop of about 400 miles, takes in the absolutely stunning western section of the Beagle with the glaciers, and then includes an offshore sail and a proper rounding of Cape Horn (weather permitting!). In the past this option has been closed to us, possibly for safety reasons, but we are hopeful that, if we don't have any problems or incidents, and we report to the authorities our position twice a day, we might be able to repeat the permit for future trips.