Along the centuries ports were divided into various styles, from the lightest, called white port, to the young ruby port, the aged tawnies and the very special vintage ports, which are declared only when the vintage is exceptional-about three times in a decade. Sweet red wines in the style of port are made in California and Australia. But two decades ago the Portuguese government made an agreement with the U.S. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms that Portuguese producers would officially label their wines "porto, while dessert-wine producers in California could continue to use "port. Don't be fooled: These other products have, in my experience, been far inferior. The good news is that Portugal only ships high-quality ports to the U.S., which buys more vintage port than any other country.