We cruised 10 or so miles out of the Bay of Pigs, then turned west, setting a course for Zapata Peninsula. Underwater, we found Cuba to be a dream. On days one and two, we dropped in GPS coordinates the crew had collected from various sources, including local fishermen. (This is a First World privilege, as handheld GPS devices are illegal for most Cubans to possess.) On the afternoon of the third day, we anchored near a blue hole. The area, like much of the coastline, was no more than 10 to 12 feet deep. The waters were so clear that it felt as if we were skating in midair across sand lined with the wiggle paths of conchs and dotted by the occasional southern stingray.