The next day proved to be every bit as challenging as Pearce had predicted, but his sharp eye and practiced hand kept the Cruisers 370 Express deftly moving around the really bad bumps. By mid-afternoon we arrived at the mouth of Tarbert, a well-protected harbor that has provided shelter to the herring fishing fleet since the ninth century. Tourism is growing in Tarbert, but the fishing heritage and infrastructure is still prominent, making the town a delightful place to explore and photograph. We caught a cab to nearby Stonefield Castle Hotel and Gardens, built in 1837 on a bluff overlooking the waters of Lower Loch Fyne, one of the headwaters. Stonefield is abundantly planted in rhododendrons collected in the Himalayas, rare shrubs from Chile, fuchsias from New Zealand, and even some impressive specimens of Sierra Redwoods. These and other conifers frame castle vistas looking out over the water, creating the perfect mood to match the comfortable and richly traditional accommodations, staff of friendly professionals, cozy pub and large dining room.