Our recent visit there was different. We arrived at the beach dry and orderly from the tender of Taipan III, a 172-foot CRN-built motoryacht. We walked along the deserted stretch of soft, white coral sand, the gentle breeze an emollient against the heat. To our left, lofty coconut palms lurked, laden with fruit; to seaward, the calm, clear water was a stunning light cobalt blue, stretching toward the reef. There, the lagoon ended and the deep blue Indian Ocean began. As we tramped the sand, hermit crabs of every size scurried underfoot, carrying their mobile shell homes with them. The hotel with the bucket was bigger and a little grander. There were a few more bungalows and the thatched roofs had been recently renewed, but the basic concept of a beachside cabin on a Robinson Crusoe-style island was the same.