Photos of the Beagle Channel in Patagonia are perhaps the most evocative (and beautiful) I ever took. Cascades of pale blue glaciers spill from snow-capped peaks to the water's edge. I recall the stillness as Pelagic Australis quietly navigated chunks of ice the size of Buicks, the hustle to tie ourselves to four trees ashore as night and cold rapidly descended. Once we were secured to handle williwaws, we gathered around the Reflex diesel stove and toasted our stunning anchorage, Caleta Beaulieu, with drinks cooled by ice from thousand-year-old glaciers. The five-week trip aboard Pelagic Australis, which sailed from Puerto Williams, Chile, up the Beagle Channel, around Cape Horn, on to the gorgeously austere Falkland Islands and across to Buenos Aires, was not the easiest I ever made: There were 11 of us aboard the comfortable but bare-bones 74-foot aluminum boat and some of the personal dynamics aboard were tense. There were a few days when the weather beat the hell out of us. But when I look back on that trip now, none of that matters. I remember instead sitting on the stern as we sailed from Cape Horn to the Falklands and watching the storm petrels, sooty albatrosses, gulls and cormorants wheeling and screeching in our wake.