No exhibit at Mystic Seaport is more popular, or better reinforces White's point on the relevance of seafaring tradition, than the whaleship Charles W. Morgan. An estimated 20 million people have walked the decks of this National Historic Landmark since she arrived at the museum in 1941, at the age of 100, and just weeks before Pearl Harbor was attacked. Today, she is undergoing a fouryear, $10 million restoration. When she's finished, she will be as seaworthy as she ever was, and the museum plans to sail her again. In the meantime, visitors can still go aboard this historic marvel and get a sense of what life aboard a whaleship was like. Visit the captain's quarters in the stern, which seem surprisingly spartan despite a velvet-upholstered settee — that is, until you visit the cramped fo'c'sle, less than 100 feet forward, which held more than 30 men in narrow wooden berths. An atmospheric audio loop narrates their experiences, giving you a real sense of what it must have been like to live cheek-to-jowl, slamming through high seas to the ever-present odor of less-than-fresh shipmates and rendered whale blubber.