As I left the yacht I realized that the difference between seeing this coast by land or by sea is the access a charter yacht provides. Here, you can find a jazz bar or a tranquil escape, spa retreats or coastal walks, high-society parties, expensive boutiques, simple market stalls, helicopter pads, racy cars, backpackers and beautiful women. But it takes an expert to help you appreciate them. Charter brokers and captains maintain their own little black books with the best of everything-restaurants, clubs, spas and beaches-continuously updated as feedback is received and fresh ideas are proposed to repeat guests. Naturally, they guard this information ferociously. If you want a VIP table booked at Les Caves du Roy, and the name of the doorman to bypass the queue snaking down the steps, you'll have to do as I do when in St. Tropez-book a charter first, darling!