Instead, we had to look long and hard each day for our wildlife sightings. Up at 5:30, on the canoes from 6:00 to 8:00, back for a big breakfast of mouthwatering local fruits and juices, eggs, Brazilian cakes and breads. Then back in the canoes at 10:00 or 10:30 for a forest walk, a village trip, or another canoe expedition. We returned to the boat for a huge lunch of local fish, rice and beans, tropical fruits and juices, one or more manioc creations, and an indigenous fruit ice cream. From 1:00 to 4:00, the Tucano motored up the river to our new anchorage while we read or chatted on deck. But as soon as the hook hit the water, we were all back in the canoes for another two-hour expedition. Dinner was at 6:30-another delicious, homey feast-always an Amazonian fish and one other kind of meat, more manioc, salad, and after that, dessert: one last canoe ride.