Greyfield Inn - Nature lovers arrive by kayak, National Park Service ferry and their own boats, but I took the Lucy R. Ferguson, based in Fernandina Beach, to Cumberland Island's private heart. "I could live here forever," a woman leaning on the stern rail murmured in her husband's ear. If my fellow passengers felt this way about Cumberland, no wonder Thomas Carnegie's descendants have hung on. Since the 1880s when Thomas, Andrew's brother, passed away in his famed brother's shadow, women named Lucy have shaped the destiny of this barrier island where day visitors are limited to 300 and the lone road is shared by a few resident cars. Thomas's wife, Lucy, finished their 44-room castle and built mansions for the children. In the 1960s when development threatened, granddaughter Lucy lobbied to make Cumberland a National Seashore and opened her childhood home as an inn.