Protector Tout

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Photo by: David Schmidt

The whirlpools intensify as we approach Dent Island. “Nobody would go through these holes and rapids on a slow boat,” Vermeulen says laughing. “But with 550 horsepower, we’ve got the power.”
Growling stomachs eventually direct us toward the Dent Island Lodge, a spectacular property owned by the Nordstrom family. Although the lodge welcomes the public, the meticulously maintained grounds, buildings and cabins give off a decidedly exclusive feel. A sumptuous lunch, served in a dining room with sweeping views of the harbor and the seaplane runway, reinforces our impression.

While it’s tempting to stay here, we’ve got only 24 hours left to return to Seattle. We push south-southeast through Desolation Sound toward Nanaimo. Vermeulen advises a quick detour to Teakerne Arm, where waterfalls pour into the mostly sweet-water inlet. We cut our engines and float into a tidy alcove.

“Hey, Olin, are those oysters?” asks Ralph. At Olin’s direction, we ease the bow toward a shell-encrusted wall. While most 7-year-olds daydream about ice-cream cones, Olin attains gastronomic nirvana with his first freshly harvested oyster. Vermeulen aims the bow toward Nanaimo, and the shucking crew ensures that he receives regular dividends.

Perhaps it was complacency triggered by the flawless evening light or the dramatic views of snowy peaks — or perhaps because partially submerged logs are really hard to see — but our luck decisively ends with a boat-shuddering thud! We immediately kill the power and inspect the port outboard, which took the full hit. All is fine, but this serves as a stark reminder of the realities of piloting log-strewn passages.

The next morning we take the more sheltered route down the Strait of Georgia and into Skagit Bay, Washington, via Deception Pass. We enjoy fast cruising all the way to the Roche Harbor customs dock, where we stock up on enough victuals to last us until Penn Cove, where Ralph swears the world’s best mussels await us at the Captain Whidbey Inn.



We reel off miles, spotting a sandbar that’s serving as a temporary rookery for 20-plus bald eagles, doubling Olin’s count for the trip. We barely finish exchanging high fives before the Deception Pass Bridge heaves into view. Again, the charts, iPads and chart plotter are carefully consulted as Vermeulen masterfully weaves past known rocks.

Arriving at Penn Cove, Ralph braves frigid, knee-deep water to retrieve our to-go order from the Captain Whidbey Inn. Instantly, the afterdeck is awash with the decadent smell of butter-sautéed garlic and — Ralph was right — the world’s best mussels. Full bellies and lumpy seas carry us back to Seattle, where we return some 80 hours after departing.

“Removal,” said Vermeulen, sensing my final question. “That’s the reason for owning this boat.”

I consider his philosophy. While some people might question the sanity of dropping serious coin on an inflatable, I realize that it is among the best choices for safely tackling this sort of high-speed adventure cruising — and even then, you’d better have a damn good log spotter. 

Protector Boats, 877-664-2628; www.protectorboats.com