I don’t want to write this article. I really don’t. I have plenty of reservations about sharing favorite anchorages, special places and hidden gems that I’ve discovered during the past 20 years of cruising the British Virgin Islands.
I’ve learned where not to go after, well, going there. I’ve suffered through family vacations with too many generations on a too small boat. I’ve waited for domestic unrest in the next stateroom to boil over into a full-blown Jerry Springer episode once the next passive-aggressive jibe was cast. There have been the horrendous waiters, arrogant resort managers, crowded anchorages that display the worst of human nature, and even a case of food poisoning where I prayed for a bullet to the head. I’ve paid my dues, so why shouldn’t you?
Well, first of all I kind of need the job. Second, the British Virgin Islands are truly paradise, and if we time our cruises right, there should be room for all of us. Here are a few of my favorite places, tips, and BVIs morsels. Have I missed yours? If you feel like sharing, drop me a line at george.sass@yachtingmagazine.com.
Virgin Gorda, North Sound
This bay hosts a wider variety of watersports activity per square mile than a Disney water park. The steady trade winds create wonderful opportunities for windsurfing, kiteboarding and dinghy sailing throughout the Sound.
Transient yachtsmen won’t have a shortage of mooring and docking options. The Bitter End Yacht Club offers slips and numerous moorings. The resort has done a superb job of welcoming the transient yachtsman. It also offers a good spot to create a surf and turf adventure. Take the boat, and spend a few days ashore, or better yet, send your guests. I also use the North Sound as my jumping off point to head to St. Martin or St. Barths. It’s a doable overnight trip and a favorable course.
Nearby is Saba Rock, which includes a restaurant, marina, and hotel. One of my best Superbowls was sitting at the bar at Saba while the boat tugged away at a nearby mooring.
To the west you’ll find Leverick Bay Resort and Marina. Kids will love the pool and beach, while adults can find a number of activities, from fishing to small boat rentals. Every time I’ve pulled in, the staff goes out of their way to accommodate us, they’re kid friendly, and the scenery is stunning. You can rent a villa through the resort. It would not be difficult to spend an entire week on the North Sound.
The Baths and Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour, Virgin Gorda
I need to confess, I’ve tired of The Baths, and won’t visit them during the high season. Why? They’re just too damn crowded and I usually end up staying on board the boat after I practice a full-in beach assault, toss a bunch of kids and a cooler overboard, and head back out to “watch the mooring,” which is code for getting away from the crowds. However, I’ve discovered a few hints over the years for those intent on visiting this stunning collection of boulders, caves, large pools, and underwater splendor.
See a complete photo gallery here.
If it’s during the high season and you aren’t able to arrive first thing in the morning, grab a slip at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour in Spanish Town (this is also a fine place to leave a boat for the season). Then take a taxi and head on down to the fun. Tip: Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour offers great provisions with a variety of stores.
One of my family’s favorite places is the Top of the Baths restaurant. You can get dropped off or walk up the path. It offers incredible views of The Baths, great food, and a pool where we seem to spend more time frolicking than at The Baths.
After you’re back on shore, a superb way to top off the day is dinner at Little Dix Bay. Dining along the beach is top-notch. The boutique resort also offers unique accommodations, ranging from suites to full-service villas. If you want to win a few points, work in a spa experience at Little Dix during your next trip.
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