Larry Carroll showed us the high-water marks from early spring, when the lake reached a height of four feet above flood level, the highest ever recorded. By midsummer, however, most marinas and waterfront restaurants had reopened and were enjoying a healthy recovery.
The town of Westport, 50 miles north of Champlain Canal, is a favorite place for yachtsmen to stop. An Amtrak station makes it convenient for changing crew, and the resort town of Lake Placid is 30 miles away by car. Above the marina a large town green with an outdoor stage offers summer concerts and spectacular views of Vermont’s Green Mountains.
From Westport we made the 10-mile crossing to Charlotte, Vermont, returning to Point Bay Marina, where we stayed 10 years ago. The well-maintained marina with its floating docks, ship’s store and clean facilities is nestled in a cozy wooded setting on the southeast side of Thompson’s Point. The surrounding scene is quintessential Vermont, with rolling hills, green forests, working farms, country stores and covered bridges.
Heading north, we ran into 25-knot head winds and four-foot seas, so we dropped the hook on the north side of Thompson’s Point in Converse Bay and waited for conditions to improve. With lots of room to anchor and wind protection from every direction, Converse Bay is an ideal place to hide from foul weather.
High on our list of favorite places to return to was Valcour Island, 30 miles north of Charlotte on the New York side of the lake. Designated a state primitive area by New York, this uninhabited treasure boasts seven miles of hiking trails, five protected anchorages and a history of Revolutionary naval warfare starring Benedict Arnold. The best spots to anchor are crowded on weekends, so plan your visit for midweek. And follow your charts carefully, as there are underwater ledges that can ruin your day.
Our recent cruise also included stops in Plattsburgh and Essex, New York, and Burton Island State Park, Malletts Bay, Shelburne and Burlington, Vermont. After tying up at Shelburne Shipyard, we hiked three miles to Shelburne Farms, a 1,400-acre dairy farm. Taking a guided tour, we were introduced to the farm animals (my wife bravely milked a cow), and we learned how cheese was made. Best of all, we left the farm store with a variety of award-winning cheddars.
After more than a week of secluded anchorages and charming villages, we were ready for some city life. Downtown Burlington, two miles from Shelburne Shipyard, was just the ticket. Its art galleries, gift shops, cafes, street performers and fine restaurants, combined with the energetic atmosphere of a college town, make this small city one of our favorites. A slip at the Community Boathouse put us within walking distance of all the action.
The short distances between New York and Vermont shores, a variety of charming towns and villages, and the abundance of scenic anchorages provide endless opportunities for discovery. We can’t wait to return.
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EATS, DRINKS AND BOAT SLIPS
Best Full-Service Marinas: The Westport Marina is family owned and operated and offers friendly, helpful service. Its Galley Restaurant offers casual breakfast, lunch and dinner. The amiable, professional staff of the Shelburne Shipyard can handle just about any kind of repair, and its ship’s store is well stocked.
Good Eats and Drink: The Old Dock Restaurant in Essex, New York, offers casual, waterfront dining overlooking the Charlotte-Essex ferry dock. It’s a good “fish ’n’ chips” kind of place. Slips are available for those who arrive by boat. Essex Provisions and More (518-963-4690), located above the marina on Main Street, offers fresh pastries, fantastic sandwiches, tasty snacks and prepared dinners to go. Leunig’s Bistro in downtown Burlington was a change of pace from the casual places we had dined. There’s good French food and decent service, but it’s a little pricey and noisy. Local friends highly recommend Trattoria Delia for excellent Italian cuisine.
