Just Tom

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With all the electronic gizmos of today giving us the ability to stay in constant contact, blog from the flying bridge, and file e-mails while crossing the equator, the simple skill of keeping a log seems to be eroding. sure, regulations require larger yachts to keep one for compliance and basic record-keeping, and many of us still maintain a log while on a long passage for navigational purposes, but the art of story-telling through the pages of a ship’s log could be going the way of the CD. Yet there’s something satisfying reading about past exploits, conquered oceans, and memorable experiences. The stained, weathered pages can transport you from the living-room sofa back to the sea. you smell the fragrant salt air, feel the heavy heat of summer doldrums, remember the boat gremlins that plagued your voyage and almost brought you to tears, and taste the simple, yet wonderful one-pot meal served at dusk before you were enveloped by the dark.

Here yachtsman Jesse Bontecou takes us with him down memory lane with his log from a voyage from Lisbon, around Cape Horn, to Ushuaia, Argentina. It’s 1985 and he has signed on board with the late tom Watson, JR., a veteran cruiser, former head of IBM, and ambassador to the U.S.S.R., who explored the world on various yachts, carrying the Palawan name. The experienced crew is sailing the recently launched Palawan VI —a 60-footer designed by Sparkman and Stephens and built by Abeking and Rasmussen. Although 1985 may seem like yesterday for some, it was a period where a written letter was still the preferred method of communication, cell phones were the size of footballs, you had to buy your music at the store, single sideband was the primary source of communication for ocean cruisers, and GPS remained in the catacombs of the defense department.

I got to Lisbon on Tuesday, September 26, and found Mac and Tom at the Ritz Hotel. After the all-night flight, I was ready for a bit of sleep and turned in until noon. Then off we went to the Explorer’s Club for a very pleasant lunch. We had a full tour of the building, which was fascinating. The most amazing deal is a huge wall map showing all the voyages of the early Portuguese explorers. By 1700 those guys had covered most of the world.

Tom plans to follow Magellan’s course as much as possible, and he seems to really like the idea of Cape Horn. We’ll see.

Saturday, September 29,
Lisbon
Still here. New skipper is getting organized. It seems that the old one is an alcoholic, and Tom does not feel he wants to make this kind of a passage with that situation, so Alden Cole arrived from Maine and is learning about the vessel. It looks like we will leave early Sunday and head for Madeira.

Sunday, September 30
0830.
We’re off. Pedro, son of IBM guy here, is aboard to Madeira. No wind and the big Cat is roaring as we roll along at 8 knots. Saw gannets feeding. They dive from about 100 feet straight down and hit with hardly a splash.

1100. Fog. But with fathometers, radar, two sat navs and autopilot, so what? Course 232, engine off, good sailing, but a bit too close for comfortable going. We are averaging 7 knots.

Monday, October 1
At sea, wind is SW, 20 to 25 knots. Stowaway system seems to work well. We roll in the main at about 25 knots and the jib at 30, and then use the mizzen and staysail. We are standing two-hour watches and are off for eight, which is great. We see a few steamers, some birds, today no birds and so far two ships.